Lakes - April 2024 Part 1/4: Windermere -> Borrowdale

 

A little OS map overview of my Lake District journey.

When April brought its famous showers this year, hiking seemed a dismal prospect. But while the rain outside was pouring, I was inside poring over a map of the Lake District. It is an area I visited often with my family as a child, particularly Derwentwater, whose independent (and formerly YHA) hostel sadly closed its doors permanently in March 2024. This grim memento mori aside, we are spoilt for choice with YHA hostels in the Lakes, and I had a hankering to see them again.

Now in my twenties, I had long decided that the best way to see the beauty of the region was to follow in the footsteps of Wainwright and Wordsworth and take to the road, or rather to the path. I whittled down the list of hostels and mapped out a route that I hoped would do justice to the great men. And so, having packed up my waterproof trousers, my raincoat, my boots, my OS maps, and an astounding number of snacks, I was ready. Neither snow nor rain would stay me from the swift completion of my self-appointed round journey. I caught the train up to Windermere and set off up the hill to the YHA there.

Now, do I lose my status as a 'budget' traveller if I reveal my weakness for private rooms? Dorms have much to recommend them: price, increased availability, the opportunity to meet fellow travellers. However, they represent something of a lottery when it comes to actually sleeping in them, more often than not plagued by snoring or other bodily noises. I tend to adopt a policy of 'one night dorm, one night private' if I'm going solo between hostels. That way I can be assured of at least a one-in-two chance of a night untroubled by the resident snorer. Of course, not all YHA hostels offer private rooms, and not all offer dorm rooms. All this to say that I chose a private room for this first night, and I don't regret it.

The view from the footpath above YHA Windermere.

I spent the evening exploring the start of the route I was planning to take the day after and heading down to nearby Trout Beck, where there was nary a trout to be seen, but there was a lovely bridge and a valley verdant from the rain. The village of Troutbeck and the National Trust-owned historic farmhouse Townend are just a little way north from here. 

YHA Windermere verdict: Excellent!

The staff were very friendly and helpful, the location is lovely - the kitchen would offer great views on a clear day - and the room and facilities were all clean and functional.

The following day I set off during a break in the rain, all togged-up. Further up the hill on which YHA Windermere lies you can find the footpath to Ambleside, which winds through a lovely bit of woodland. On the day I travelled, I had some great atmospheric views across Windermere.

Views across Windermere from the wooded path to Ambleside.

Through Ambleside and onwards past Rydal Water, there is a footpath that winds up and over towards Grasmere, avoiding the busy road below. I took this route, and then once Grasmere was reached, it's a quick jaunt up the road to get to Calf Crag.

Or so I thought.

A wrong turn took me up to Easedale Tarn, which I'm sure is charming during the Summer months, when the wind is not so biting and the hail is not pelting down. As bleakly beautiful as it was to look down at from Tarn Crag, I was more focused on fighting across the top to High Raise, hood up to protect my head from the hailstorms that blew over the ridge.

Looking northwards from atop Tarn Crag.

I gallantly fought through the unrelenting wind to a flagstone path, a marker of civilisation that I greeted with relief. From there I was able to make my way north and follow the path down past the majestic Eagle Crag. My phone had died at this point and I was recharging it with a battery pack (an essential for solo hiking), so please excuse the dearth of photos. I am no more prepared to spend a thousand words to paint this picture than you are to read them, but piece out my imperfections with your thoughts: rest assured that the descent was as magnificent as the ascent.

Gathering clouds spurred my intent, and I walked swiftly as possible by the river (in a footpath that was becoming worryingly indistinguishable from the former) to try and reach Borrowdale before the rain arrived. An unfortunate squall caught me in the final half-hour, but YHA Borrowdale has that most perfect of facilities: a drying room. I hung up all I could.

I was sharing my dorm with I think either 7 or 9 other people, all part of one walking group, and the room was very damp from all of the wet gear they had around. I only mention this to give you an idea of what to expect from this type of accommodation (if you didn't know already!). This, and the aforementioned 'bodily noises' issue, explains the adoption my hostel accommodation rule.

YHA Borrowdale is lovely, with a games room, a kitchen as well-appointed as can be expected, and even a fireplace by the bar. I met a Dutch traveller and we played foosball and a couple of board games together. That kind of connection is part of what makes staying in these hostels great, and really harkens back to the origins of the YHA as a collaborative affair.

YHA Borrowdale Verdict: Great!

A perfect pitstop with pleasant walks right on its doorstep. The staff were all friendly as usual and the place had a real collaborative atmosphere.

Find part 2 here: Part 2/4: Borrowdale -> Wasdale Hall.