Lakes - April 2024 Part 3/4: Wasdale Hall -> Eskdale

The view from the south shore of Wastwater.

This is part 3 of a 4-part series. You can find parts 1-2 here: 

• Part 1/4: Windermere -> Borrowdale
• Part 2/4: Borrowdale -> Wasdale Hall.

The morning after my arrival in Wasdale, I bade the Hall a fond farewell and, reluctant to part from the shoreline, took a circuitous path by Wastwater to Nether Wasdale, there to resupply from the very welcome Sawmill Cafe & Farm Shop. One of the best things about a walking holiday, at least to my mind, is the license to splash out a little on a nice sausage roll or some cake.

And so, rucksack thusly replenished, I headed onwards and upwards past Irton Fell, with a view at my back that went some way to justify my semi-frequent stops to catch my breath. Across the top, I picked my way through a waterlogged path that wound its way through the pines before descending through the dappled deciduous lower reaches of Mitterdale Forest.

A section of muddy path in Mitterdale Forest. What glamour!

At the bottom of the valley, the stepping stones over the River Mite were almost overrun thanks to the recent heavy rain. Without the wire strung across for benefit of the unsteady traveller, I would have certainly taken a bath. A freezing, unwanted bath.

Having cunningly avoided an unscheduled swim, I hiked up across a rocky heath, trying to keep to the path through the boggy ground as I reached Siney Tarn, Blind Tarn, and Blea Tarn. Although these particular tarns are not especially prepossessing, the views across Eskdale are quite something, especially on a day such as the one I had. A day where the clouds scud across the sky, their shadows sweeping in pleasing patterns over the rugged landscape. I found a cluster of rocks out of the way of the endless wind and stopped to munch on my sausage roll, listening for the hoot of the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway in the valley below.

The view over brooding Eskdale. Sausage roll not pictured.

I took the path down into Beckfoot and managed to finagle a closer look at the steam engine, as I opted for the footpath alongside the tracks. Even I, who know next to nothing about steam trains, can't help but get a little excited when I see one in full spate. Memories of The Hogwarts Express or The Railway Children dance unbidden in my mind. The engine I saw, which by careful research I have gleaned was probably the River Esk, is small - but then, with only 7 miles to cover to Ravenglass, you could hardly expect it to be The Flying Scotsman. It's diminutive stature is part of its charm, and if I ever return to the area, a trip by rail is surely on the cards.

The River Esk engine on its merry way to Ravenglass.

On this occasion however, I took a leaf out of Dionne Warwick's book, and Walk(ed) On By, heading up via Eskdale Mill and along a mismatch of various footpaths before joining the road for the final stretch to YHA Eskdale, well ahead of schedule. I walked up behind the hostel, had a bite to eat, and planned the next day.

When it came time to check in, the solitary member of staff was as friendly and accommodating as its possible to imagine. I had the benefit of a private room that night, and took full, grateful advantage of it. After a shower, I sank into bed, hoping to be up and away early to avoid the rain that was forecast the day after.

YHA Eskdale verdict: Great!

This is a lovely little hostel in a beautiful, historically fascinating corner of Cumbria. There are plenty of walks right from its doorstep and the staff, although operating as a skeleton crew when I visited, were exceptionally friendly and helpful.

Find the fourth and final part of my hostel-to-hostel walk here: Part 4/4: Eskdale -> Coniston Holly How -> Windermere.