YHA Manorbier - June 2024

 

A section of moody coastline near YHA Manorbier.

The Mists of Time part and lo! There! A recent memory!

In June 2024 I took advantage of one of the many YHA member discounts offered throughout the year - these are available only on select hostels, of course, lest excitement threaten to overwhelm you, Reader. Discount secured, I hoved down to Wales, like an infinitely less warlike Edward Longshanks. I had previously spent a few happy holidays in beautiful Snowdonia, but had sadly neglected to enjoy the many charms of the Pembrokeshire coast in the south of Wales.

So it was that I settled on YHA Manorbier, nestled on the south coast but a short drive from Pembroke. My girlfriend and I were booked into a 'landpod', which is basically a small cabin - very much glamping. A few years ago I would have scoffed at the idea of such luxury, but now that I've sampled the good life, I find it difficult to contemplate camping in anything so humdrum as a tent. 

Church Door Cove

Step out the door of YHA Manorbier and you're practically in the sea. A few minutes' walk away, you can descend the metal staircase to Church Door Cove, so-named for the imposing sea-arch found there. A religious experience, to be sure.

A little further along the coastal path, you can find the excellently-named Skrinkle Haven Beach. which is sadly now inaccessible due to erosion of the cliff and the steps leading down to the bay. Some people still seemed to be making that trip: I leave the decision to risk the unsafe (and perhaps unlawful) descent up to your discretion Reader, should you ever visit.

Happily, there is an alternative, and in my humble opinion, superior beach just a little further along. As far as I can tell, this beach remains unnamed, at least according to the ultimate authority of Google Maps.

Venture past the RAF base and along the coastal path for a mile or so and you will reach steps leading down to a sandy beach sheltered in the lee of the cliffs. You can even take a dip in the sea if you're prepared to brave the chilly Welsh waters. This was certainly our beach of choice during our stay.

Important: Be aware that the Pembrokeshire coast has quite a few military bases of one kind or another. In fact, ADR (Air Defence Range) Manorbier, which as mentioned is very close to YHA Manorbier, is "the only range in mainland UK from where the High Velocity Missile, employed in the anti aircraft role, can be fired". Accordingly, there are periods of the year (visible on the .gov website linked above) when access to sections of the coast is restricted. When red flags fly at the perimeter of these areas, do NOT enter the land (or surrounding sea).

Skrinkle Haven Beach

If you continue along the coastal path, you will, after some few scenic miles, reach the larger Manorbier Beach, over which Manorbier Castle, an 11th century construction, keeps a watchful vigil. It is an impressive edifice viewed from the outside, and day admission is quite reasonable too. According to their website, they even offer self-catering accommodation. Proud glampers that we were, such lofty lodgings tempted us not, and we contented ourselves with a brief look around the periphery before heading onwards.

Manorbier Castle

Manorbier Castle is far from the only fortification in Pembrokeshire. Due to the rich history of warfare in Wales and, to be blunt, the near-constant past oppression of the Welsh people, there are a great deal more historical strongholds to be found in the region. Even Edwin Starr would be forced to concede that wars have directly led to the construction of some fairly spectacular castles there. Somewhat of a pyrrhic victory for us, then.

Less then 20 minutes by car north of the hostel, Carew Castle, a grand 13th century affair, overlooks Carew Tidal Mill and its adjoining mill pond, through which runs the Carew River. The tidal mill here has the honour of being the only remaining example of its type still operational in Wales. The building now houses a museum, which is definitely worth a look on a rainy day.

Carew Castle (and Tidal Mill [not pictured])

The final castle we paid a visit to was Pembroke Castle, whose formidable walls rise up from the banks of the Pembroke River. The current iteration was built in the 13th century, though the first, a wooden motte-and-bailey, dates back to the Norman invasion of Wales. 

Pembroke Castle, overlooking the Pembroke River.

But kings, lords and knights were not the only ones with deep pockets. Bishops, too, got in on the act, historically and fiscally speaking. Lamphey Bishop's Palace, situated between Pembroke and Manorbier, is just as opulent as the name implies, and must have been quite the sight between its construction, in the 14th century, and it's inevitable dissolution during the reign of Henry VIII. (Please note, although it is not itself a monastery, it was still surrendered to the crown in 1546 [source: wiki]).

Lamphey Bishop's Palace.

Cultural enrichment is all very well, I hear you say, but what about the walks? Didn't you go on any more walks? No additional hikes? No further rambles hither and yon? Well, I'm getting to that, and I rather resent your tone.

It is possible to head right out the door from YHA Manorbier and make a beeline to Tenby, which is a picturesque town with, yes, yet another castle, and a lovely open bay that was quite a popular swimming spot with some of the other hostel guests.

For me though, the jewel in the crown of the already glittering South Pembrokeshire regalia is the walk along the coastal path between St Govan's Head and Freshwater East, which encompasses Broadhaven Beach, Stackpole Head and Barafundle Bay.

The coastal path between Tenby and Manorbier.

Restricted access to areas to the south due to military drills put the kibosh on our plans to visit St. Govan's Chapel. Fortunately, the route north is almost as lovely, with sweeping rugged coastline, a multitude of wildlife to see, and even the option to circle back via the idyllic Bosherton Lily Pools.

A stretch of the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path, looking out towards Stackpole Head.

YHA Manorbier verdict: Excellent!

The hostel's location allows you to take full benefit of the dramatic coastline for walks and moments of powerful clifftop brooding (should the mood take you). There are plenty of local cultural and historical attractions too, although I will admit that having a car this time made them much more accessible. The hostel facilities are well-maintained, and the self-catering kitchen well-appointed.