YHA Coverack - August 2022

The magnificent view between Coverack and Kennack Sands along the South West Coast Path.

The nights are drawing in, the frosts are clawing ever closer, the leaves are vacating the trees. Old Man Winter walks among us, and by God he’s feeling ornery.

Time, I think, for some sun and sand. Join me in my fantastical imaginarium! Leave behind the chill of encroaching winter for the heady summer of 2022. In the UK, this was a scorcher, with a record temperature of 40.3°C reached in July*. In August 2022, I had the yen, as I often do, to go down to the sea again. John Masefield and I are of one mind on this one. In heeding that wild, clear call, there is one destination that for me rises above all others: Cornwall.

I have spent many of the happiest moments of my life on the Cornish coast. From babe, to boy, to man, it has been a source of constant joy. Although my childhood stomping ground was the north coast of Cornwall, around Padstow, I felt sure that the south coast was its equal. So it was that I chose YHA Coverack, in the fishing village of Coverack, a little way south of Falmouth. For economy’s sake, my partner at the time and I were camping, which is a lot simpler in the kind of heat we had. YHA Coverack is currently (Nov 2024) only available via exclusive hire, but it may be that they open up their doors to smaller groups and camping again in the summer.

The problem with getting to Cornwall from anywhere else in the UK is that it takes absolutely ages to get there. Those using the beleaguered UK rail system face a similar problem. Travelling to Cornwall by train therefore represents something of the perfect storm. After the full day’s travel, we were able to pitch up and settle in, even exploring the cove a little before bed.

Our time at Coverack was marked by coastal walks, swimming, and the occasional opportunity for cultural or historical enrichment.

The Way To Go (note the capitals) from Coverack is probably south west, and the route to Kennack Sands along the South West Coast Path is replete with all sorts of places of interest. Aside from the stunning vistas over the English Channel, there is the artistic attraction of the Terence Coventry Sculpture Park, a number of small coves within which to commune with the elements, and vantage points from which to scan the cliffs and sea for signs of Cornwall’s rich variety of wildlife.

Looking out over the English Channel.

There are also some nice paths north of Coverack, although it does require a bit of road walking to make the route circular. We wanted to stop by Roskilly's Farm - free admission by the way, if you have a hankering to see a cow, pig, or chicken - although as I remember we were primarily motivated by the promise of the ice cream there. Suitably restored on that hot, hot day, we pressed onwards to Giant’s Quoit, which, although significantly less impressive-looking than its Carwynnen cousin, still looks suitably quoit-y. Looping back around, the South West Coast Path takes a scenic route past a quarry, with the sea on your left.

The verdant quarry, viewed from the coastal path.

When it comes to swimming spots, you could do worse than Porthbeer Cove on the Coverack headland, just half a mile from the hostel. For those in search of a quieter spot however, we ‘discovered’ a beautiful cove a little further along the path. I can’t find the name, nor pinpoint the exact location on grainy Google Maps, but between Porthbeer Cove and Downas Cove, the coastal path passes a small outcropping. Here, we were able to carefully enter the cold Cornish water and then sun ourselves on the rocks to dry. It would not be suitable for children or in rough seas, but for adults, employing caution, it was a lovely spot.

Our not-so-secret swimming spot.

Of course, no trip to the coast is complete without fish and chips. I don’t generally namecheck specific fooderies, but The Lifeboat House F&Cs really hit the spot on our last evening in Coverack. We stepped away to the more secluded Chynhall’s Point to enjoy the view over the water while we ate. Perfection.

YHA Coverack verdict: Excellent!

I couldn’t really ask for much more from a camping experience. The shower block and kitchen were well-appointed, the nearby walks are great, and the sea was only a hundred or so metres away. What can I say? The price was right.

*Take a break from this light-hearted blog to read about the grimmer side of that heat in this UK Gov. Heat Mortality Report.